Crab Sandwiches

There really can't be many better ways to enjoy delicate, sweet crab meat, than with a really good lemony mayo, ripe avocado and some fresh bread from a local bakery.

On an Easter bank holiday trip to the Isle of Wight, we stopped off at the Ventnor Haven Fishery and on a whim bought a crab for lunch. A mere 3 hours later we sat down to a pile of incredible sandwiches. So picking a crab can be a palaver and this one put up a good fight - luckily we had a bottle of wine to hand and some good conversation. So to avoid a crustaceous war zone you may prefer to buy the meat ready prepared from your fishmonger - but making your own mayonnaise is so worth the extra effort and it tastes nothing like the insipid white stuff from the shops.

Serves 4-6

1kg crab or 2 x 500g crabs (white and brown meat extracted) (tinned crab can be used but it won't be quite as delicious)
1 loaf fresh soft white or granary bread

To garnish:

Sprig Parsley (chopped)
Chives (chopped)
2 ripe avocados
Rocket

For the Mayonnaise:

2 egg yolks
250 ml groundnut or sunflower oil
25 ml olive oil
1/2 tsp dijon mustard
1/4 clove of crushed garlic (optional)
Juice of 1/2 a lemon
Pinch of cayenne pepper
Approx 1/2 tsp salt
Ground black pepper

I tend to use an electric whisk for making, but a regular balloon whisk will do the job just as well. Put the egg yolks into a bowl and break up with the whisk. Then very slowly drizzle in the oil, at first drop by drop, ensuring that it is all incorporated, and then increasing the drops to a drizzle. If you add the oil in too fast, the mayonnaise will separate, in which case, slowly whisk the separated mayonnaise back into an additional egg yolk. If it becomes too thick, add in a tsp or so of water to loosen it. Once all the oil has been incorporated, add in the mustard, garlic, lemon, cayenne and salt and pepper - adjusting to taste.

Combine the crab meat with a couple of tablespoons of mayonnaise, spread generously onto slices of bread, pile on the avocado, a sprinkling of chopped parsley and chives and a little rocket for some crunch.

Put an Egg on it take 2 - Eggs Florentine

Eggs Florentine is the most amazingly indulgent breakfast I can imagine, not one to have often but an absolute treat from time to time. This has become a family tradition for our birthday breakfasts, with a fruit salad to start off, and mugs of steaming coffee.

An english muffin is topped with a little steamed spinach, poached egg and doused in rich lemony hollandaise. Replace the spinach with ham and you have eggs benedict and with smoked salmon it becomes egg royale, but I think using spinach keeps it the right side of sickly. Don't be scared of the Hollandaise, the key is to keep the pan not too hot.

Serves 4 (1 egg each)

2 english muffins
4 very fresh eggs & 2 egg yolks (use Clarence Court for the bright orange yolks)
4 good handfuls of baby spinach
125g unsalted butter (cut into cubes)
1/2 lemon
salt and pepper
Chives to garnish

Timing is crucial for this recipe, so have the table laid and plates ready.

Fill a wide pan with water add some salt and bring to a simmer (for poaching the eggs). Halve and toast the muffins and spread with butter (slightly unnecessary what with the Hollandaise, but this is no slimmer's breakfast).

Steam the spinach until just wilted and grate a little nutmeg in if desired, season with s & p.

Once all the components are ready, make the hollandaise. Separate the eggs and put the egg yolks in a bain marie (bowl suspended over a pan of boiling water). Add in the butter piece by piece, whisking all the while until it is all incorporated and the sauce has thickened. Season to taste with a squeeze of lemon and some salt and pepper. Add in a tablespoon or two of cold water if it is too thick. Make sure the bowl doesn't get too hot, but if the sauce separates, gradually whisk it back into another egg yolk and it will come together. Hollandaise can't be reheated so once its ready turn off the heat leaving it over the hot water in the pan beneath and work quickly with the eggs.

One by one, crack the eggs into a cup and drop into the pan of gently simmering water. Poach for 2-4 minutes until, the yolk is still soft and white just set. Place on some kitchen roll to remove any excess water.

Assemble by putting the spinach on top of the toasted muffins, top with a poached egg, a grinding of salt and pepper, a spoonfull of hollandaise and scattering of chives. Eat immediately.

A Quiche with Goats Cheese and Basil

Bad quiche is an anaemic affair, soggy pastry holding together an eggy centre usually punctuated with some limp pieces of ham.

But, the humble quiche can be so easily made into something rather special with a bit of effort. This recipe contrasts crisp, buttery pastry with a soft, creamy centre cut through with some caramelised onion, salty goats cheese, basil and kale. Alternatively try smoked salmon with blobs of salty cream cheese and some snipped dill; pea, spring onion and courgette or the classic Lorraine, but make sure your bacon is good and crispy.

A Quiche with Goats Cheese and Basil

Ingredients

For the pastry:

200g plain flour
250g cold unsalted butter, cubed
1/2 tsp salt
3-4 tbsp cold water

For the filling:

2 small red onions or 1 large, finely sliced
30g butter
Dash of balsamic vinegar (optional)
1 large handful of chopped kale
200g (approx) goats cheese log (with rind), sliced into rounds
generous bunch basil, chopped

5 egg yolks
4 eggs
500ml whipping cream
salt and pepper

Its all in the pastry so try making your own, but all butter ready made is a decent alternative.
Put the butter, flour and salt in a food processor and blitz until it looks like fine breadcrumbs. (This can also be done by hand). Then slowly add in the water, pulsing after each addition, until the pastry starts to come together. If it is still too crumbly, add in a little extra water.

Lightly knead and bring together into a ball, cover in cling film and put in the fridge for at least half an hour.

Meanwhile, melt the butter in a wide pan and soften the onion gently until it becomes sticky and sweet this can take around 20-25 minutes, towards the end splash in a little balsamic and cook a little longer, this will enhance the sweetness. Blanch the kale for 1-2 mins in a pan of boiling water, drain and set aside.

Preheat the oven to 180C.

After half an hour, take the pastry out of the fridge, and roll out on a floured surface as thinly as possible. Line a loose bottomed metal tart tin, with the pastry, press into the sides with a spare piece of pastry and cut off the edges with a rolling pin.

Put back in the fridge for a further 15 minutes. This will help to stop the pastry from shrinking when its cooking. Then, put a sheet of baking paper on top of the pastry, pour baking beans over the top and bake blind for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown.

Remove the baking beans, and put the pastry case back in the oven for about 5-10 minutes to ensure it is crisp.

For the filling, whisk together the eggs and cream and season well with salt and pepper.

To assemble, scatter the caramelised onions, kale and basil evenly over the base of the pastry. Top with the rounds of goats cheese and carefully pour in the egg and cream mixture, making sure not to spill any over the edge as this can result in soggy pastry.

Cook for 30- 40 minutes until golden and just set in the middle.